Some things translate in any language, like a six-year old boy putting his fist in his arm pit and making um, gassy noises. At dinner we were enjoying our entrée (or first course) when the young man in question engaged in the activity with gusto. But, again I am ahead of myself.
Today began with another light breakfast in St. Gervais at the Pension Marmotte – the marmot for those of you interested in alpine fauna. We packed up and drove the back roads for miles through the valley of glorious mountains, granite cliffs and rushing rivers all around us. Occasionally, we drove through yet another lovely alpine village and marveled at how beautiful this area is. The mountain views were stunning as the skies were crystal clear and we could see forever. I have to say that I am rather surprised at how much I am in love with this country. I never expected it.
Our first stop was Annecy, the “Venice of the Alps”, an incredible village on a clear mountain lake. The rivers running into the lake were made into canals ages ago, like dark ages ago. You can cruise through town on a flat bottom boat and see the medieval architecture, the castle, and a former home/mint/WWII resistance fighter prison that are built into the canals. We spent one happy hour in this sweet town with views of the alps and history that you can feel.
Back on the road we drove straight to Provence, to Collais specifically to camp at a fantastic place on the Gard River. The river boasts one of the most important Roman ruins in France, the Pont du Gard, a bridge and aqueduct that were used to supply water to the neighboring town for hundreds of years. We are camped just above the next Roman bridge up river.
French campgrounds are fabulous. There are all the usual amenities plus a full restaurant, bar and pool. There is also an access road to the river. It was a very hot afternoon today here. Provence is arid, almost reminiscent of New Mexico – in fact we found wild French sage today the climate was perfect for a swim in the river.
We hiked down the trail and enjoyed a cool swim in the river along with many locals and travelers from other European countries. The water is clear and cold and the stream is filled with a wide variety of fish – none that I can identify exactly. I really could use some good flora/fauna guides and have my eyes peeled – but everything is in French. Alas.
After a refreshing swim we hungrily drove to Uzes, the next town over, to find dinner. We parked in town surprised at what looked like some of the oldest buildings we have seen on this trip. After strolling through town we found a table at a sidewalk café and awkwardly ordered dinner.
Tonight we shared the local Rose table wine (lovely) and ordered some interesting and delicious food. I had a salad with goat cheese, Penne with seafood and a cream sauce, and a plate of (stinky) cheese. Bob had a very thin cheese pizza, spaghetti bolognaise, and a trio of desserts (crème brulee, coffee ice cream and chocolate mousse). Crystal had escargot over penne pasta. We all enjoyed our meals and went for a stroll.
Walking through town was remarkable. We found the Hotel d’Ville (village hotel) and wandered through the center of it – open air, very old. The entire town is medieval – or so we are told. On the other side of the hotel we faced what turned out to be the Duke’s castle. Seriously. Right about then we heard the church choir practicing from the Hotel window. What a moment! We captured it on film and I will try to post it later.
We continued through town and found the central square – almost a fortress and only accessible through small passageways. Lit with white strings of lights in the trees and dotted with café tables on the stone courtyard we have found tomorrow’s dinner site.
Tonight we are sitting in the grass outside our tents enjoying the cicadas calling and varieties of Mont Blanc ales that we picked up in St. Gervais. The blonde is lovely but we have renamed the Blanche – “Sausage” flavor and the violet “Flower” flavor. Tomorrow we will be kayaking down the Gard and off to see Roman ruins in Nimes.
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